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Fitting Info

The Shaft Is The Transmission


Customers often ask us, " Will this shaft work well with this club head?" By asking this question, the customers are taking the position that the club head is the principle component of a golf club. We believe that the golf shaft is the "transmission" of the golf club and one of the most  important components in club performance.

To determine which shaft is best for you, lets consider these points:

Flex: Flex is one of the most commonly misunderstood parts of the golf shaft. NOTHING is more important in choosing your new set of clubs than the correct shaft flex. You can have the best club head and the sweetest swing, but if the shaft isn't the right flex for you (your tempo and swing speed), you won't hit a good shot, unless you know how to modify your swing to compensate for the different characteristics of the club you are using. Most amateurs don't have that kind of skill and frankly don't need that skill. That being said, you could actually swing slower with a regular flex club and achieve the same distance you would with a stiff club swinging at a faster speed. This is because the regular shaft, if it unloads properly through the impact zone, actually adds clubhead speed at impact and therefore more distance. A stiff shaft minimizes this unloading effect, and, if you don't swing fast enough to need it, you could be cheating yourself out of a few yards. A fast hard swing is also usually harder for most amatuers to control, so examine your game and make an informed decision on shaft flex.

The way to determine the flex you need is by your clubhead speed.  The following can be a guide to determine your clubhead speed: (have your clubhead speed measured if at all possible)

If your swing speed is less than 70 MPH (You choose a 3 Iron or a 3 or 5 Wood from 150 yards) you should use a Ladies flex.
If your swing speed is 70-80 MPH (You choose a 4 or 5 Iron from 150 yards) you should use a Senior flex.
If your swing speed is 81-96 MPH (You choose a 6 or 7 Iron from 150 yards) you should use a Regular Flex.
If your swing speed is above 95 MPH (You choose a 8 or 9 Iron from 150 yards) you should use a Stiff flex.

Be honest with yourself about your swing!   Choosing a flex that is too stiff is a common mistake that will hurt your game!

Length Of Your Clubs: If you are not sure what length clubs you need - you can use the simple method of measurement called "Wrist To Floor". All you will need is a yardstick. Stand up perfectly straight with your golf shoes on, and have someone measure from the floor to the crease of your wrist. About 80% of golfers are in the "standard length" range of 34 to 36" - and here's a chart to help you. When you order clubs from us, you can easily choose the length you need by clicking on "Customize".

 

  Wrist-to-floor

 Length

 

 

   27" to 32"

Minus One Inch

   32" to 34"

Minus 1/2 Inch

   34" to 36"

Standard Length

   36" to 38"

Plus 1/2 Inch

   38" to 40"

Plus One Inch


Kick Point: The kick point (also called flex point, or bend point) refers to the position on the shaft where the shaft bends while the club is accelerating toward the ball.

The kick point slightly affects ball flight. (Choosing the correct flex for your swing is much more important, and has the greatest affect on ball flight.) The kick point on the shaft is no more than 2 to 3 inches between high, medium and low. Most of our shafts have a mid kick point that is fine for the vast majority of golfers.


Graphite vs. Steel: Both steel and graphite shafts can work for anyone. One common misconception is that if a golfer plays regular flex steel, that he should play stiff flex graphite. Actually, the flex is the flex. Regular is regular, and stiff is stiff. Pro's with similar swing speeds choose different options here. Tiger uses steel and Daly uses graphite, so go figure. The following are our very general recommendations:

Men aged 15-55, steel shafted irons, graphite shafted woods.
Seniors, graphite shafted irons and woods.
Ladies (all ages), graphite shafted irons and woods.

Graphite is lighter weight, and enables players to generate more clubhead speed, and achieve greater distance. Steel, while heavier, may help slightly with accuracy.

Spine Aligning: What is it? First of all, this is what Tom Wishon has to say, arguably the most knowledgeable on technical issues when it comes to golf equipment:

"It is a fact that all shafts -- steel and graphite -- have some degree of spine," says Tom Wishon, (formerly chief technical officer for Golfsmith). "This is because it is impossible to make a shaft which has perfectly symmetrical bending properties all the way up, down and around the shaft for the prices demanded by the consumer. Therefore, no shaft bends the exact same amount under the exact same force in all directions."

Wishon explains that by identifying the inconsistencies of the shafts and installing the shafts in the clubhead so that their effect is neutralized by proper orientation toward the target, the shaft will bend exactly on the same plane as the golfer's swing.

So that's what we offer at Value Golf. For a fee of $5.00 for a Wood, and $25.00 dollars for a set of 8 irons, we will put the shafts you want in our spine finder, and orient the spines in a postion in relation to the clubhead that we (and most in the golf industry) believe will give you the most consistency possible.  Please note that on a graphite shaft, the graphics will usually not be aligned "normally" if you choose this option.


 



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